His last project: “The Woodward” in Geneva.

We wanted to meet for dinner. Not in a star restaurant, Joël Robuchon had enough of that himself; It was 32 Michelin stars in a good year. A fondue evening was planned with a successful Swiss hotelier from Macau, in the Carnotzet of an always cheerful Valais winemaker. Topic: Robuchon’s first engagement in Switzerland. The “boss of the century” had to cancel the appointment due to illness. He died of cancer on August 6, 2018, in Geneva, his adopted home.  However, what Joël Robuchon was planning will open next spring after all: “The Woodward”, a magnificent palace right on the lake. With a «Atelier de Joël Robuchon», of course.

Robuchon was the first address in Paris. Exactly until his 50th birthday. Then he got out and devoted himself to projects that fascinated him more and burdens him less. His “studios”, for example, opened all over the world. The formula: black & red. No pomp and no arrogance. Signature dishes, are straightforward and served quite cheaply in most countries. Preferably at the bar, with a clear view of the kitchen and its pots. My favorite “atelier” is “L’Atelier Joël Robuchon Etoile” in Paris, under the Champs-Elysée, difficult to find in the windowless basement of a drug store.

Joël Robuchon, like his friend Frédy Girardet (Swiss), was an incredibly good, incredibly product-obsessed, and incredibly strict boss. But he was also a pioneer and trendsetter. Traveling to all continents and often to Japan had shown him that there are alternatives to the classic French “fine dining” temples. “A restaurant is not a church,” he used to say, pleading for a lot of happiness at the table. Robuchon was right: “Fine dining” has to be fun, otherwise the guests stay away. (Almost) everyone has understood that by now.

Read what is being created in Geneva here: an elegant luxury hotel, a “masterpiece”, managed by the excellently working “Oetker Collection”. With two restaurants that bear Robuchon’s signature (“L’Atelier”, “Le Jardinier”). It is sad that the great master can no longer experience how lovingly his last dream is implemented.

by Urs Heller

Editor-in-chief GaultMillau, Switzerland

Every region of the world seems to have one. I don’t know why they call them “Nr 1 in the World” when there are so many, according to many different associations, rating companies, and clubs.

There can only be one number one!? So, how about rating them from 1 to 100, however, rated by a reputable, worldwide, non-profit society, similar to the United Nations, for example, when it comes to global politics?

I feel it is unfair to the thousands of Chefs around the world who most probably are just as innovative, creative, and talented as those called number 1 by a “for-profit” society or association selling memberships, books, and rating directories.

Some of the greatest Chefs I have known and met such as Fredy Girardet (Swiss), and  Hans Stucky ✞ (Swiss, God bless his culinary soul) his restaurant is now run by Tanja Grandits a great Chef, Charlie Trotter ✞ (USA) The Haeberlin Brothers (France) Paul Bocuse ✞ (France) besides Bocuse I don’t think the other ones were called the best in the world, they were, however, ranked best in their country or region.

In Annecy, France, there is Jean Sulpice at the ” Auberge du Pere Bise” doing a fantastic job.

In South Florida, where I lived for 40 years, there are some amazing Chefs today, places like “Cafe Maxx” in Pompano Beach, where Chef Oliver has been at the helm for many years now, serving consistently great food.  There is Chef Kal  Abdalla at “A Fish Called Avalon” in Miami Beach. He was a protegé of mine back in the late ’70s, and he turns out some amazing dishes at this South Ocean Drive restaurant. 

Well, according to just a few of the world’s rating associations, here are some of their elected number ones! Which they do most probably well deserve, but let’s not forget the ones that are not so privileged to receive the exposure and credit they deserve, reasons for that could be many different ones, the owner of the establishment can not afford to pay for the subscriptions of certain magazines or publications, or maybe the owner doesn’t want to share the talent in the kitchen with the rest of the world, especially if the restaurant is already successfully packed every night, or it could also be that the chef doesn’t have the self-confidence, endurance or patience to reach the stars, you can’t be good on Monday and Tuesday and mediocre on Thursday and Friday, you have to be great and consistent seven days a week! “you are only as good as your last meal” in this business!

°from “World’s 50 Best Restaurants”

Mauro Colagreco Nr. 1 in the world’s best

Mauro Colagreco, number 1 in “World’s 50 Best”, cooks in the Kulm St. Moritz, Switzerland, during the winter. A pop-up deluxe! Mauro Colagreco takes over from «Mirazur» in Menton on the Côte d’Azur. His references: three stars from Michelin. 18 points from Gault-Millau France. And quite a title: The smart Argentine is number 1 in the prestigious list “World’s 50 Best!”.

www.kulm.com.     www.mirazur.fr

Fotos: Matteo Carassale, EduardoTorres, Gian Giovanoli, Lopez de Zubiria

°According to “Le Chef”, this is a compilation of the 100 best chefs in the world for 2019, naming Arnaud Donckele from the LA VAGUE D’OR Restaurant in Saint-Tropez as Nr 1.

°from The Best Chef Awards 2019, Top 10 chefs in the world:

 1. Björn Frantzén | Frantzén | Stockholm, Sweden

2. Joan Roca | El Celler de Can Roca | Girona, Spain

3. David Muñoz | DiverXo | Madrid, Spain

4. Grant Achatz | Alinea | Chicago, USA

5. Mateu Casañas, Oriol Castro and Eduard Xatruch | Disfrutar | Barcelona, Spain

6. Virgilio Martinez | Central | Lima, Peru

7. Mauro Colagreco | Mirazur | Menton, France

8. Rene Redzepi | Noma 2.0 | Copenhagen, Denmark

9. Vladimir Mukhin | White Rabbit | Moscow, Russia

 10. Jonnie Boer | De Librije | Zwolle, The Netherlands

from The International Congress of World Chefs:

Nr 1 is Thomas Keller, according to them, the most popular American chef

°from France’s Michelin Guide 2020:

• 1 Alain Ducasse – 19 Michelin Stars
• 2 Pierre Gagnaire – 14 Michelin Stars
• 3 Martin Berasategui – 12 Michelin Stars
• 4 Yannick Alleno – 10 Michelin Stars
• 5 Anne-Sophie Pic – 8 Michelin stars
• 6 Gordon Ramsay – 7 Michelin stars
• 7 Thomas Keller – 7 Michelin stars
• 8 Yoshihiro Murata – 7 Michelin stars
• 9 Seiji Yamamoto – 7 Michelin Stars
• 10 Andreas Caminada – 7 Michelin stars
• 11 Heston Blumenthal – 6 Michelin stars
• 12 Masahiro Yoshitake – 6 Michelin Stars
• 13 Heinz Beck – 5 Michelin stars
• 14 Jordi Cruz – 5 Michelin stars
• 15 Paco Perez – 5 Michelin stars
• 16 Quique Dacosta – 5 Michelin stars
• 17 Special Mention: Joël Robuchon – 31 Michelin stars Joël Robuchon, known as the ‘Chef of the Century,’ passed away on 6 August 2018. At the time, he was decorated with 28 stars, more than any other chef in the world. This French chef is known as the pioneer of the post-nouvelle cuisine era, and his relentless perfectionism has translated into a more authentic, timeless French cuisine.

Gault Millau – July 12, 2020

Text: Urs Heller Photos: Olivia Pulver

EXPERIENCE 1: «THE PARMESAN OF THE SEA». Jeroen is not someone hiding outside in the kitchen. He likes the contact with the guests, so he prepares the first amuse-bouche outside on the lake terrace with stoic calm and a friendly explanation, «Caesar Salad», of course, one of a kind: a small leaf of lettuce. Pickled tomatoes. Dried, smoked, and grated egg yolk. A «Parmesan», not from Italy, but from the Rigi. A lot of effort for a single bite, but wonderful! Starter No. 2: “Edible charcoal”! Smoked hot peppers are in the black ball, which you can dip into an Indian lime dip. Also good: a Dutch toast with Beeler Sbrinz and mustard seeds; there is a fermented Beet sauce. The recipe can be scanned on the can and read on the iPhone. That’s how it works with young chefs today. The kimchi taco and the roll with chorizo ​​and black garlic were also great. A young chef grates dried and smoked octopus over it: “The Parmesan of the Sea!”

Jeroen Tamme Achtien, Head of Restaurant Sens, Vitznauerhof Vitznau

Recorded! Jeroen Achtien and his Dutch brigade amazed in the “Sens” Vitznau.

Jeroen Tamme Achtien, Head of Restaurant Sens, Vitznauerhof Vitznau

Preferred location right on Lake Lucerne. Dinner at sunset.

EXPERIENCE 2: ZANDER FRESH FROM THE ICE! Can fish be “dry-aged” like a mock of meat that is left hanging on the bone? “Of course,” says the Dutch cook and magician Jeroen Achtien, frees the Pikeperch, from eyes and gills, cleanses and vacuums it. The freshwater fish is then at zero degrees for five days on the ice. “It matures, gets more taste,” says the boss. However, “ice aging” is only half the battle for this parade. It gets awesome because there is a lot more to it: cauliflower. Thin slices of bacon, served with tweezers, fermented grapes, an impressive miso sauce. And a glass of Tonkubetsu Honjozu. “Sake goes best with it,” says Susanne Nguyen (formerly Tim Raue), who heads the service at “Sens”.

 EXPERIENCE 3: DUCK LIVER, STUFFED! Achtien: «I like foie gras very much. But stuffed liver in the menu – somehow this is no longer possible. So I experimented for a long time. » The solution has literally been on the table for a few days now: the chef is picking clarified butter, the foie gras is becoming an incredibly gentle spoon dish. So smooth that Jeroen immediately takes countermeasures: fried orange fillets, pumpkin kombucha, and yuzu gel set the tone. The “Royal Belgian Caviar” is also not “just like that”. The components here: Passion fruit (well!), Egg yolk, goat curd.

EXPERIENCE 4: Also Lamm cheeks can be braised. In the main course everything from the Muotathaler lamb, delivered by the butcher Markus Heinzer. First a cheeky wild garlic Bao-Bun with the small but very fine lamb cheek (!). Then the Back-Fillet matured for three weeks. The Lamb Neck, which has been cooked for twelve hours, lies under a Sakura leaf. We discover the Lamb Sweetbread under a savory salad. The jus has power: XO, with Scallop pieces in it! Sous-chef Marcel Koolen was in Asia for a few months in winter; so there are always Asian components on the menu.

Charcoal Dish – Edible «charcoal»! Smoked hot peppers are in it.

Vitznau Interior – Small, fine, stylish. The «Sens» in the Vitznauerhof.

Dutch Toast – Dutch toast, Sbrinz & Fermented Beet sauce.

EXPERIENCE 5: CHEESE FROM NITROGEN & «SUCKERBÔLLE». It never gets boring until the end. Jeroen Achtien comes out of the kitchen again, dips blue mold buffalo cheese in nitrogen. The effect on the plate: the cheese is just cold for a few seconds – then the typical blue mold taste develops. There is also “Suckerbôlle” (Sugarbread), a specialty from the Dutch Friesland; That’s where Achtien and half the kitchen brigade come from.

 GAULT MILLAU SAYS: “Vitznauerhof” chef Jeroen Achtien is one of the most unusual young wild chefs in the country. “Wild” is only half the truth: his creations are perfectly composed and only want one thing: taste sensations, as much Umami as possible. Taste is “king” in top gastronomy. Potential for improvement? Timing! Four and a half hours at the table are one hour too much, even on the most beautiful terrace on Lake Lucerne.

Hotel Vitznauerhof – Sens Restaurant, Seestrasse 80, 6354 Vitznau, LU, Switzerland

17 points by Gault Millau

Hotel Vitznauerhof on Lake Lucern

has created her perfect world in the famous restaurant “Stucki” in Basel, located close to the German and French border, it has been a longtime favorite for gourmands. What characterizes Switzerland’s best chef: the ability to do exactly what she thinks is right and to inspire the people around her. In 2014, she was “Chef of the Year” of the “GaultMillau“, with 18 points and 2 stars. Try the Pork Belly with Dill Jus, Makrele over Lemon Couscous, and Cherry Vinegar-glazed Sirloin with Sumac Artichoke. 

Visit: Bruderholzallee 42, 4059 Basel, Switzerland;  +4161361 82 22;

restaurant-stucki/restaurant

Desperately wanted:  Good Chefs!

*The stressful job spoils the professionals and deters the young ones.

*Talents want to go high up and end up in a debt trap.

Joel Kraaz

TV Chef Joel Kraaz from Ottenbach ZH is not the only one who burned his fingers for his dream of independence and was in debt. Today, he says, “I can not handle money.” “Yes, I have over CHF 400,000 in debt,” Kraaz confirms.

The Schaffhauser Simon Adam was elected the Young Chef of the Year in 2007, founded a catering company, and went bankrupt last year.

Before that, even a world-famous super-pro like the Brit Jamie Oliver is not immune.

Simon Adam

Highly decorated and still in debt. He is said to have over CHF 91.5 million in debt with his restaurant chain. With fatal consequences: A year ago, Oliver had to close twelve of his 37 branches and lay off around 600 employees. Since then, the famous British TV star has had to cook on a much smaller flame.

THE OFFSPRING AT THE STOVE IS MISSING

Fewer and fewer teaching posts in gastronomy can be filled. A reason, GastroSuisse Union states, is the declining number of school attendees in Switzerland. This affects all industries. But: Gastronomy also fights against a bad image among learners. This is proven by a study of the Hotel & Gastro Union. Above all, the unattractive working hours and the salaries are reasons why young people shy away from a vocational apprenticeship.

A look at the readjustment barometer also shows that culinary professions are not among the most sought-after places for an apprenticeship. That is the reason why culinary apprenticeships sank 20% over the last 5 years. Additionally, 20% of the apprentices change their professional branch after completion of the apprenticeship.

EMERIL LAGASSE:  

Emeril Lagasse

Chef Emeril Lagasse shot to fame as the host of a popular Food Network show that encouraged amateur chefs to try their own hands in the kitchen. But despite being one of the most recognizable celebrity chefs in the country, Lagasse’s outlook on his future as a restaurateur — and the restaurant industry in general — is fairly grim. “I have nowhere to go, really — other than broke,” said Lagasse at a recent event promoting his upcoming TNT reality series On the Menu.

“It’s becoming a very challenging industry to become a very successful average restaurateur,” continued Lagasse. “I can’t charge $300 a person in my restaurant, or I would not be in business. Am I using any different ingredients? Not really. Am I using any caliber of service staff? I don’t think so. I think our service is as good or better than most places.”

“And then you add all the Obama nonsense!

to what it’s become in the last several years. I don’t have anything against Mr. Obama. I’m just saying the way that you know… the government should stay out of things. […] Pretty soon, they’re going to wipe out a lot of the middle restaurateurs and restaurant cooks. […] If it continues, then watch: you’re going to have high-end, and you’re going to have fast food, and you’re going to have chain restaurants.”

Lagasse went on to lament that the areas in which he operates restaurants — including New Orleans, Las Vegas, and Bethlehem, Pennsylvania — have been hit particularly hard by the problems in the economy. “Somebody having a $12.99 meatball and pasta dish at my restaurant means a lot to them,” he said. “That’s like a special occasion.”

“The one thing that I can say is that I’m pretty connected to America — because I’m a good listener, and I think that’s what makes a great restaurateur, is that you’re a good listener,” he said. “I don’t have a solution. If I did, I could run for president. But I don’t have a solution. All I can tell you is that the balance of the economic cycle is out of whack.” by Scott Meslow, SEPTEMBER 2014

Conclusion: This confirms my comments on my blog from January 12th below

is considered the Oscar of fine dining. 20 minutes (a Swiss online newspaper) attended together with star chef Nenad Mlinarevic the Award Night in Bilbao.

Rating systems such as Michelin stars or Gault Millau points have been deciding for decades whether or not to be gourmet restaurants. Since 2002, “The World’s 50 Best Restaurants” has also been a part of the game and presents a yearly list of the 50 best restaurants around the world.

Despite criticizing the non-transparent rating methodology, the rating of “50 Best” has become one of the most respected gourmet food rankings, as shown last week at this year’s “50 Best” Awards Night in Bilbao. Not one of the 50 listed top chefs missed being part of the award ceremony.

A high rating means little freedom and being in a pressure cooker!

Also part of the party: the Swiss star chef Nenad Mlinarevic (37), who earned two Michelin stars and 18 Gault Millau points for the restaurant Focus in the Parkhotel Vitznau. He said goodbye to the Star Kitchen last year, set up his own business, first opened a pop-up restaurant in Zurich (Stadthalle), and now, with two partners, opened the Bauernschänke in Zurich’s Niederdorf.

“Without awards, I am free of pressure and can use my knowledge in many ways”, Mlinarevic explains his decision.

Das Rating von «The World’s 50 Best Restaurants»

gilt als der Oscar des Fine Dining. 20 Minuten war mit Starkoch Nenad Mlinarevic a der Award Night in Bilbao.

Bewertungssysteme wie Michelin-Sterne oder Gault-Millau-Punkte entscheiden seit Jahrzehnten über Sein oder Nichtsein von Gourmet-Restaurants. Seit 2002 mischt auch «The World’s 50 Best Restaurant» in diesem Spiel mit und präsentiert jährlich eine Liste mit den 50 besten Restaurants rund um den Globus

Das Rating von «50 Best» hat sich trotz Kritik an der intransparenten Bewertungsmethodik zu einer der meistbeachteten Ranglisten für Feinschmecker gemausert, wie sich letzte Woche an der diesjährigen «50 Best»-Award Night im baskischen Bilbao zeigte. Kein einziger der 50 gelisteten Topköche liess es sich nehmen, an der Verleihung präsent zu sein.

Eine hohe Bewertung bedeutet wenig Freiheiten und viel stress!

Ebenfalls mit von der Partie: der Schweizer Starkoch Nenad Mlinarevic (37), der für das Restaurant Focus im Parkhotel Vitznau zwei Michelin-Sterne und 18 Gault-Millau-Punkte erkochte. Von der Sterneküche hat er sich letztes Jahr verabschiedet, sich selbständig gemacht, erst ein Pop-up-Restaurant in Zürich (Stadthalle) und jetzt mit zwei Partnern die Bauernschänke im Zürcher Niederdorf eröffnet.

«Ohne Auszeichnungen bin ich frei von Druck und kann mein Wissen vielfältig einsetzen», erklärt Mlinarevic seinen Entscheid. 

The post Ratings, treat them with Caution! first appeared on Food, Travel, and Stories from a Swiss Chef Who Cooked Around the World .]]> https://www.ulrichkoepf.website/ratings-should-be-treated-with-caution/feed/ 0 https://www.ulrichkoepf.website/45-years-abroad-returning-history-filled-swiss-village-join-family/ https://www.ulrichkoepf.website/45-years-abroad-returning-history-filled-swiss-village-join-family/#comments Sat, 20 May 2017 10:04:36 +0000 http://ulrichkoepf.website/?p=966 Have you visited Altdorf??  Tell us about it at the end of this page↓ The Birthplace of Wilhelm Tell, The Swiss Hero Having lived in half a dozen countries over 40 years, there comes a time when a decision has … Read More

Have you visited Altdorf??  Tell us about it at the end of this page↓

The Birthplace of Wilhelm Tell, The Swiss Hero

Wilhelm Tell, Swiss Hero

Having lived in half a dozen countries over 40 years, there comes a time when a decision has to be made whether you want to live away from your family circle or join them, wherever they are. I decided to return to my native country of Switzerland, where my Mom (was 100 in January 2021), my sister, and my three sisters-in-law and their families now live. I was personally born and raised in a town called Aarau, in the Canton of Aargau, a town famous for its architectural towers and peaks within the old town, lying on the banks of the Aare River, but that’s worth another story! 

After a long time abroad

It was like being in a Twilight Zone, moving from Miami to Altdorf, a village in the Canton of Uri, surrounded by an absolutely breathtaking mountain range. Altdorf is a large village with approximately 10,000 inhabitants and lots of history. It is where Wilhelm Tell shot the apple off his son’s head with a bow & arrow, and his monument stands tall overlooking the village courtyard. It is also one of the major gateways to Italy via the Base Gotthard Tunnel or Pass.

The village of Altdorf was burnt down three times between 1241 and 1799

and was rebuilt bigger and better after every fire. I could actually see the proof that during a renovation of an apartment, all the supporting ceiling beams were still scorched from the fires back then. My family runs a small, 16-room boutique hotel with a great restaurant and bar. Living here is great, we are within walking distance from work, the post office, shops, banks, and the whole family clan, all 3-5 minutes away, which could be a good or a bad thing!

Danioth is the oldest bakery in town, where they produce some of the finest confiseries and specialty pastries in the canton. You can sit on any of the many terraces of the local restaurants and cafes such as the Restaurant Lehnhof, Cafe Central, and Hotel Zum Schwarzen Loewen, built in 1592, (where The German Poet/Author Johan Von Goethe stayed over), and enjoy the mountain view, breathing fresh, clean and crisp air while enjoying a Kafi Fertig, a very light coffee with lots of Plum Schnapps!

Hotel zum Schwarzen Löwen – Altdorf

My wife drinks two of those Kafi Fertig, and suddenly she rattles away in Swiss German, sometimes Spanish and Italian words mixed in it, lol!

If you want some club action, there is the Tellenbar open until the wee hours. There is Erwin Steinemann Pottery, a local artist producing beautiful handmade pottery items.

A large percentage of the population is working for Daetwiler AG, a local manufacturer of technology and electronics. Attractions are plentiful in the area, the national holiday is August 1st, and the carnival in February is a fun event; the entire village is transformed and participates in this traditional event with lots of parades, everyone wearing creatively designed outfits, and a lot of drinking. They say the birth rate climbs around that time! At the Monastery situated on a hill overlooking the village, they have stone carving lessons where you can learn how to make beautiful stone art by hand. There is a leather shop where they teach you how to make leather items from scratch. Getting to Altdorf from Zurich airport via Luzern is an amazing trip through the countryside and through the carved-out streets along the lakeside. Please put it on your bucket list!

It’s worth a detour!

Best Regards, your Blogging Friend, Ulrich Koepf

The post After 45 Years Abroad, Returning to Swiss Town Joining Family first appeared on Food, Travel, and Stories from a Swiss Chef Who Cooked Around the World .]]>