The Etzlihut is nestled in the wild mountains of the canton of Uri, near the border with Graubünden (Grison)

The beautiful mountain landscape around the Ettzlihut offers something for everyone: families, hikers, school classes, climbers, mountaineers, snowmobilers, and ski tourers. An ideal base for a stay of several days, a training, or a touring week.

My family and I did this hike a few years back and loved it, It took us about 5 hours to get to the Hut. Upon arrival in the evening, we had supper there and enjoyed a glass of prosecco in the hot tub! Early next morning, we kept going towards the ridge above us to start the descent on the other side of it.

The Etzlihut website , click here

Let me introduce you to the Gotthard region—a slice of Switzerland that’s part historic marvel, natural wonder, and part workout disguised as a vacation. Nestled in the Alps, it’s where glaciers whisper their ancient secrets, tunnels defy physics, and goats shamelessly steal your snacks.

I came here looking for adventure, a touch of history, and maybe an Instagram-worthy selfie. What I found was blisters, stories I’ll be telling for years, and an alarming respect for Swiss cheese.

Act I: The Devil’s in the Details

The Gotthard Pass has been Europe’s main artery for centuries. Merchants, pilgrims, and armies slogged through this treacherous route, driven by ambition and a deep mistrust of Google Maps. At the center of it all is the Devil’s Bridge, a structure so legendary it comes with its own infernal backstory.

devils bridge

The legend goes like this: the villagers needed a bridge but lacked the know-how. So naturally, they called in the Devil. He agreed to build it but demanded the first soul to cross as payment. Clever villagers sent a goat instead. The Devil, not a fan of loopholes, hurled a boulder in fury. (Frankly, I’d have just demanded my consulting fee.)

Standing on the bridge, I marveled at its timeless design and the fact that it hadn’t been renamed “Goat Memorial Bridge.” History is weird like that.

Act II: Nature’s Gym Membership

If the Gotthard Pass is the region’s historical heart, its trails are the lungs. Lungs that you’ll need in excellent shape, by the way, because every hike here feels like a fitness test disguised as a scenic stroll.

Take my trek to Lake Lucendro. The guidebook called it a “moderate hike,” which I quickly realized was Swiss for “you might survive, but don’t count on it.” As I trudged uphill, wheezing like an old accordion, I questioned every life choice that led me to this point.

But then—oh, the payoff! The lake appeared, shimmering like a jewel cradled by rugged peaks. I collapsed on a rock, ate a sandwich, and tried to look contemplative for a photo while secretly hoping my legs wouldn’t mutiny on the way down.

on the way down I approached an old, what looked like a cattle stall or barn, being curious, I peeked through the cracks of the wooden walls, and what I saw almost freaked me out.. a 50mm canon, all rusty, but still facing SW, left over from the second world war! Camouflaged by a barn!

Canon Barn & Rock Camouflage

Of course, the wildlife here doesn’t care about your existential crises. Marmots chirped at me like gossiping neighbors, by the way. They make a great muscle & joint pain relieving ointment with the fat of the marmots) and ibexes surveyed my sweaty form with unearned superiority. And then there was the goat—a bold creature with no respect for personal space or property rights. After a tense negotiation involving my granola bar, we parted ways. I’m pretty sure he won.

Act III: Culture Shock (But in a Good Way)

Gotthard culture is a delightful mix of German precision, Italian flair, and Romansh mystery, all wrapped in a blanket of Alpine charm. And nowhere is this more evident than in the food.

In a tiny village inn, I was introduced to the holy trinity of Swiss cuisine: bread, cheese, and stories. The locals served up fondue with a side of folklore, including a tale about the Tschäggättä—mysterious Alpine spirits that roam the valleys in winter. Supposedly, they scare off evil spirits and the occasional tourist who overstays their welcome.

I also tried a local specialty, famous in the canton of Uri, the canton where you either start your journey through the Gotthard or end up starting from the Tessin, the Italian part of Switzerland.

Riis & Poor

The fondue itself was a revelation. Molten cheese, crusty bread, and the unspoken rule that dropping your bread into the pot meant you’d either sing or pay for everyone’s drinks. I didn’t drop my bread, but I may have sung anyway. The yodeling lesson didn’t hurt either.

Conclusion

The Gotthard region is many things: a gateway to history, a playground for nature lovers, and a test of your cardiovascular endurance. It’s where you can stand on a bridge built by (allegedly) Satan, share your lunch with an overly enthusiastic goat, and end your day with cheese-induced euphoria.

As I boarded the train home, sore but happy, I couldn’t help but smile. The Gotthard isn’t just a place you visit; it’s a place that visits you back—in the form of stories, laughter, and the occasional phantom muscle cramp.

So, pack your boots, bring your appetite, and prepare for the adventure of a lifetime. And maybe keep an extra granola bar handy. You never know when you’ll meet a hungry goat.

Dear fellow citizens!

We live in the Canton of Uri. According to the founding history of the Confederation, the Eternal Confederation of the Confederates was sworn and sealed by us on the Rütli in 1291.

730 years later, Uri is a self-confident and independent state of the Confederation in the heart of Switzerland. In Switzerland where different regions, cultures, religions, and languages ​​gradually came together.

We all, not just the politicians, are meant to give Uri the stand as an independent, solitary, and open-minded face. We want to make our contribution to the Swiss Confederation, and in return, we benefit from federal services every day. Despite all the differences, there is a common will in Switzerland to stand by each other. That is what holds the Swiss nation together and what our prosperity and success are based on.

History tells us that we were most successful when we held together: the parts of the Land, city, and countryside, but also young and old, and when the strong supported the weak. Together, we have faced the difficult coronavirus situation in recent months. This required sacrifices and special operations. By standing together, we helped overcome the crisis.

In general, I see a positive attitude in the canton of Uri. There is a basic trust that it will go well! I am convinced that this positive attitude has helped us to survive the coronavirus situation. During this difficult time, as an economics director, in particular, I saw many positive examples of how our Uri companies are using the new situation and turning it into a positive one.

Let us reflect on confidence and solidarity on the federal holiday. I hope that we will increasingly emphasize and promote what connects in the next few years. Let’s try to break off dividing walls and remove stones. For me, that doesn’t mean that we always have to agree. But if we can assume that everyone involved wants only the best for our canton and for our country, then we should be able to emphasize the connection and build on it.

With this in mind, I wish you a happy federal holiday.

Sincerely,
Urban Camenzind, Chief Magistrate of the Canton of Uri, Switzerland